They asked for a red ostrich headband (alice band), which I didn't make pictures of. I made it in one hour and it was picked up by costuming immediately, before I had a chance to shoot it. This whole order all took place VERY quickly. I was called, they had some specs for me to go by (color, shape, etc.), and I had to have the entire order ready in 2 days! Not much time for trying to second guess them or myself on the specifics they wanted. I just had to dive in and create around some general specifications.
The first hat was to be a tiny top hat, a fascinator really. It was to be orange straw with a green vine twining around the actress' face. OK, so here we go! Above you see part of an orange hood blocked over a tiny crown, a block I had to carve before the blocking took place...more time!
I took the crown off the block, which you can see to the right, and cut away the excess.
I've taken the full outside edge of the original hood and cut the length down to be used as the brim for the hat. Note that because this is a tiny hat, I also had to make a flat fell seam after I cut the brim to size. The flat fell seam creates a tidy edge and no fraying. The depth of the brim was such that I could have a turned up brim. See further down.
Before I could join the crown and brim I had to create the 'headsize' for the brim. I did this by placing it (the brim) over the base of the crown and used a basting stitch to pull the brim into the size I needed. Easy to do and this way I know the headsize for the crown and brim will be the same, since they both were determined by the block.
Now the crown and brim are joined and I've pulled up the brim for an upturned look. I'll join the crown and brim with a backstitch.
Next I've added a self-hatband, only because I didn't want to add any other colors, textures, or elements to the basic hat. This was in spec with the costumer's wishes.
And the final hat! I used millinery wire to create the vine, wrapped it in a bias cut of green satin, so that I'd get the nice fraying you see, then added the pinked satin leaves to the vine. A little black veiling and it is complete!
Another view of the Halloween hat for One Tree Hill.
Below is the process for the second hat I made for them. This one was based on a picture I was given of a 1930's style hat that the actress had worn in another episode and liked. I was to create something similar, in green velvet/velour.
I've wet-shaped buckram over a vintage hatblock similar to the crown in the picture I'd been given. I've used roping to hold the buckram against the block in the tip indent. Pins alone would never work.
Roping removed. You can now see the tip indent I mentioned above.
Crown and crown block. I've neatened the buckram shape and prepared it to be covered in fabric. A wire was added in the headsize to help keep the shape through all the process of working on it, plus the wearing. Buckram can easily get out of shape and be ruined in not secured.
There was to be no front brim, or not much of one, but a side brim was ok. Here you see the shape I came up with and the fabric in the background, ready to stitch and cover the buckram. I rarely use French elastic on my buckram edges. I prefer to make a flange, lay in the wire, whip stitch it down, then use an iron to flatten the edge if needed. It just works better for me than using French elastic.
Tip of the crown has been covered, as well as the brim. Almost ready to assemble.
Final product! Note that the brim is wider on the side, narrows at the front, and then narrows to nothing of the other side of the hat. I've added some beading in the tip indent to hold the indent in. The fabric I've used is green stretchy velour. Made it very easy to cover the form. I've also added some green veiling.
Second view of the hat.
Had a great time working on these, although from first call to pick-up was a mad dash! I almost always work better under pressure; with that said I was in perfect working conditions!!
I've wet-shaped buckram over a vintage hatblock similar to the crown in the picture I'd been given. I've used roping to hold the buckram against the block in the tip indent. Pins alone would never work.
Roping removed. You can now see the tip indent I mentioned above.
Crown and crown block. I've neatened the buckram shape and prepared it to be covered in fabric. A wire was added in the headsize to help keep the shape through all the process of working on it, plus the wearing. Buckram can easily get out of shape and be ruined in not secured.
There was to be no front brim, or not much of one, but a side brim was ok. Here you see the shape I came up with and the fabric in the background, ready to stitch and cover the buckram. I rarely use French elastic on my buckram edges. I prefer to make a flange, lay in the wire, whip stitch it down, then use an iron to flatten the edge if needed. It just works better for me than using French elastic.
Tip of the crown has been covered, as well as the brim. Almost ready to assemble.
Final product! Note that the brim is wider on the side, narrows at the front, and then narrows to nothing of the other side of the hat. I've added some beading in the tip indent to hold the indent in. The fabric I've used is green stretchy velour. Made it very easy to cover the form. I've also added some green veiling.
Second view of the hat.Had a great time working on these, although from first call to pick-up was a mad dash! I almost always work better under pressure; with that said I was in perfect working conditions!!
I hope these will make it in the show. You never know about these things. Guess I'll be watching the Halloween episode of One Tree Hill to find out!
