Buckram and Wool Hood Class--East Carolina University

Last week I was at East Carolina University in Greenville, North Carolina, teaching a class to their Textile BFA/MFA students. I thought it would be a great idea for the students to bring in some of the fabulous fabrics they have worked on during the semester--shibori, silk dyeing, discharging and other fabric manipulation. They, in turn, requested that part of the class be working with felt hoods. So that is how the class curriculum evolved. Below are the pictures from that class.

Nice stash of dyed silks, cottons, and some feather pieces. These were to be used on the buckram forms provided for the class. All the buckram forms were variations of pillboxes.

The class prepares their buckram forms with domette. At right is Robin Haller, Assistant Professor of Textiles at ECU, who also took the class. She is a master weaver doing incredible work.

A stitch in time....

Everyone loved the way the wool felt molded in their hands. Just have to remember that damp and hot makes the work go much faster.

Above--the free-form shaping of the wool hood. Below--a very happy hatwearer models her hat in front of the mirror.

Love the multiple V's in this hat. Nice!

LOVE the shape of this hat!! So very 1930's!

Always inspiring to work with students on the university level, especially those who have a real love for fibers, fabrics, textiles. Thanks for a great workshop ECU.

O, Me! The Omo! Headresses and Adornment

If this video of the Omo people doesn't make you want to get up and create something then nothing will! Be sure to turn up the volume for great soundtrack to the images. We, who are interested in adorning our bodies, especially our heads, can take away MUCH from this video.

Hatty Award!

I've been awarded a 2009 Hatty Award by Hat Life Magazine! I'm thrilled! There was an international group of 30 awarded for 2009, and I am humbled to have been chosen. The Hatty is awarded to "a Website, Blog, Headwear Designer, Importer, Supplier, Manufacturer or Retailer who has made a worthwhile contribution to the headwear industry in 2009."

If you don't subscribe to to their bi-weekly Hat Life newsletter, perhaps you'd like to start. Lots of good stuff to peruse twice a month.

Washington, DC Millinery Class--Straw and Felt Blocking

This past weekend I was pleased to teach a millinery class, for the first time, at the Art League School in Alexandria, Virginia--a suburb of Washington, DC. I've been trying for years to find a place to teach in the DC area because so many people have expressed an interest from that area. I taught a class called Hats For All Seasons: Blocking Straw and Felt. I believe this is the first millinery class to be taught at the Art League School. Hopefully I'll be going back.

What you will see in this blog entry are the results of the student's felt blocking experience. They started with a 100% wool hood, and were asked to free-form shape it. I always ask them to block, re-block, and re-block using this skill, as I want them to get a real sense of what the medium will do. Until you play with the wool, by steaming and shaping, will you not get a real feel for what great abstract shapes you can achieve. It's fun!

Check out the next few pictures showing some of the class in the process of blocking their hoods. You'll see the results later in the blog entry.







Millinery students begin the process of steam blocking the wool hoods over hatblocks.

Modeling their creations in the next few pictures!

Below you will see all the hats lined up in a case. It was a great way to display all the hard work these ladies and gentleman put in to fashion their fabulous millinery creations! See what you think.

Can you believe all the diversity of shapes and colors? That's the beauty of free-form styling.

There was no time to add any embellishment to these hats, and quite frankly, many probably don't need much, if anything added to them. They are truly sculptural and works or art in their own right.

Thanks to all the Washington, DC, students for participating. You all did a super job! See you next time.

Evolution of a Hot Pink Hood

Follow the pictures as I take you on the evolution of this hot pink wool hood into a hat made for a recent trunk show. It will be initially blocked over a simple crown block and then free-formed from there. And finally embellished.

Here you see the hood in the very first blocking over the hatblock. It will have to be steamed and blocked several times to get it smoothly over the hatblock. In fact, because the tip of this block is rather flat, it was difficult to get the tip of the hood flat. I had to finish it off by using an iron and damp pressing cloth to get it like I wanted.

I use a length of 3/4" wide elastic to help hold the hood against the block and to give me stability in starting the free-forming.

Another view with further free-forming. Remember that I'm steaming as I shape. And using bead-head pins to hold shapes.

After I get the shape as close as I can get to what I've envisioned, I start trimming away bits I don't want or need in my final design. Be careful in this step!

Close-up of one of the twists that adds interest to the design. I've also added a bias cut silk band, a wide one, with fraying on the edges. The silk is a very cool grey to contrast with the hot pink.

After I secured the band I began adding some fringe, made from the roundings, and then 3 felt balls in different colors.

Final product on a mannequin head at yesterday's trunk show.

Millinery Shop's Holiday Open House

Friday night aMuse had its 3rd annual Holiday Open House! We had a great attendance, not only for the champagne and canapes, but for the work of our featured artist of the evening. After a glass of champagne or two each guest had a great time trying on my handmade hats, handmade felt scarves and bags, plus EVERYONE loves the vintage costume jewelry! A room full of women (ok, there were 3 men in attendance) sipping, noshing, and shopping...what more could you ask for? This was an offical WAWAS event (Wrightsville Ave. Working Artists Studios.)

Debra Pyeatt, the featured artist, does incredible beaded jewelry. Her designs and color combinations are spectacular. She is a local artist and is represented by several galleries, including aMuse. Debra set up her collection in the front atrium of the shop so that as people arrived they would see her first.

Debra first came into the shop a couple of years ago. It was several visits later that we realized we had a deep connection in my sister (also a bead jeweler), whom Debra had worked with in far-away Dallas, Texas. My sister passed away several years ago. We felt an instant connection and have been friends since that miraculous discovery. I get chills every time I think about our chance meeting so far from where she and my sister knew each other.

Chef Lori Eaton, who not only is a personal chef but an internet cooking show hostess, whipped up some yummy, yummy bites. I met Lori 3 years ago as I was opening the business. She popped in to have a custom hat made for a 'milestone' birthday. We've been friends ever since. Great chef, good friend, and a fun person!

My good friends Louise Giordano and Amanda deLeon. Louise is a fiber artist, represented in several galleries, and Amanda is an up-and-coming fashion designer. She was a semi-finalist at Charleston (SC) Fashion Week last year. Very, very talented ladies!

Looking for hats, headpieces, and jewelry!

That's my adorable husband in the background. Michael served as bartender for the evening. He is soooo supportive of the shop and my millinery endeavors! Also shown are raffle winner Margit Royal (trying to decide on her choice of prizes) and Amanda deLeon.

What a great night! Sold a few hats, some jewelry, and had a slew of new folks come through that were not familiar with aMuse previously. I think they left knowing they'd be back soon...I hope so!

HAPPY HOLIDAYS, EVERYONE!

Vintage Costume Jewelry

Most everyone who reads this blog is here because they have an interest in hats: looking at them, learning about them, discussing them. But I started this blog as a showcase of not only what I do as a milliner, but what my shop, aMuse, carries other than hats and headpieces.

This is my first entry about the fabulous collection of vintage costume jewelry aMuse has in the jewelry cases. Jewelry started as a tiny portion of the merchandise at the shop, but I quickly determined that practically everyone who came in was mesmerized by the bling. Sparkle in the cases, sparkle in the eyes!

aMuse is known in town as a place you can get quality vintage jewelry from the 1880's to the 1980's. Most of it is from the 1940's through the mid-1960's. There are LOTS of rhinestones! Think back to the vintage Vogue magazine photo shoots--the models in their gorgeous clothes and jewelry draped everywhere--necks, ears, arms, shoulders, fingers. That's the kind of jewelry we have.

The above necklace is in the style of Haskell, Robert, and DeMario, although it was not marked.

This sparkler is a verified Juliana necklace--one of the most sought after designer names in costume jewelry.

Very wide brushed gold-tone bracelet spaced with rhinestones. Can't you just see this on a glam arm holding a dry martini?

Bling bling!

Oh. My. Gosh! These rhinestone earrings are about 3" long and full of fire! Notice the different shapes of stones. Quality stuff.

Pave rhinestones that twinkle all over the room, especially since the bottom teardrop swings freely.

I'll post some other jewelry in the future. Just thought it was time so show off some of the great pieces in the collection, which changes constantly due to the popularity of vintage costume jewelry. Doesn't hang around the shop too long! Make a statement at your upcoming holiday parties with vintage costume jewelry; get noticed!

Bridal Millinery

I make alot of hats during the year. Straw. Felt. Sinamay. Abailk. Buckram. Wire. Straw Braid. And the vast majority of those are custom-made for clients. Sometimes I sell the ones in the shop but that is a rarity. Usually those are sold to someone who has waited until the very last minute for a special occasion and comes running in to get something for the event. That's fine. Always some hats on the mannequins for folks to try on and get ideas for the custom-made hats. Ah.

And then there are my lovely brides. Gotta love them. My bridal clients tend to be young ladies (and mature ladies as well) who have a strong sense of their individuality. They are not, as I say, 'cookie cutter brides.' They are not usually the brides you see in the Sunday paper. Yes, they may have a traditional dress, but the shoes may be red, or flip flops, or none! The jewelry is usually from our vintage collection. All put together for a uniquely beautiful bride.

I have NEVER sold a single bridal piece that is in the shop. You: "Never? Doesn't that worry you?" Me: "Not a bit. I want the bride to come up with her own ideas, guided by what I can offer her to get that idea to gel. That includes looking at new and vintage materials, pictures, sketches, and talking it all through. The pieces in the shop are starting points. We design a one-of-a-kind piece from all the elements available."

So. Below you will see just a few of the pieces I've made for my brides during the last year. Enjoy!


Beauty-marked ivory veiling with emu feathers.

Very wide vintage horsehair braid with biots, coqs, and sequins, pearls and beading.

1940's inspired bridal veil with handmade silk flowers with gilded embroidery stitching and vintage glass glitter stamins. Gold embroidery edging.

Headband of white veiling sprigs and a twisted flower made from remnants from the bridal gown.

Ivory pleated silk Juliet buckram form with handmade silk lillies. Delicate vintage face veiling.

I love my brides!

More Flat Felt Hat Pictures--Millinery Class at Arrowmont

Here are more pictures of the great hats made at Arrowmont School of Art and Craft. Pictures speak louder than words. All are made from flat felt skirting by my talented students.

Thanks, Erin, for sending these along for all to enjoy!

Fabulous, fabulous job, ladies!!